Auto mesh bed leveling reddit. Then i create the mesh and save it.

Auto mesh bed leveling reddit It's properly calibrated, meaning, the z endstop is actuated at a known distance from my bed 0 position, given the bed and surface I used when I calibrated it. 40 preferably So I've followed their guide to bed level. There's plenty tutorials in YouTube :) Like a lot in this sub I have issues with (auto) bed leveling and the first layer. I just got a new Ender 3 V3 SE and the auto-leveling is not working properly. Auxillary leveling - adjusted knobs at 6 locations to scratch paper a little c. 2 motherboard and no other upgrades. What did I all do: update to latest klipper version used a genuine BL Touch for leveling I have a geeetech a30 with marlin firmware and I slice with cura. if I put the printer back into that "aux bed levelling" mode, is it using the ABL mesh or does it revert to absolute coordinates? I don't want to find myself chasing the ABL function in a loop. does blTouch probing on first point of 25 and say save to eePROM and won't probe rest of the 24 points. I've been trying to get my bed level for a few days now. I get all 4 corners to be exact, let's say point 12 above center. So everyone saying that bed leveling is important. So tbh if you don’t want to wait everytime for abl sequence then what you can do is auto level in the menu before a print. A little bit less uneven now. Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. 005 of Zero. M420 S1 will also load the mesh. is there a way to adjust the leveling manually? Unlike cheaper models, the cr20 pro has no knobs under the bed for manual adjustment. When is the auto bed level mesh in effect? i. I have a 9x9 bed mesh and I do use save_config after the auto bed leveling. I've got a duetwifi on that printer, so it can handle fairly intensive calculations in the bed leveling - I'm using a 9x9 grid of probe points. h) Reply reply However, it is important to obtain good delta calibration prior to enabling a bed mesh. com As the title suggests, I'm curious about the benefits of automatic mesh bed leveling. 14mm. So even with the software compensation for minor surface defects, I still have to level the bed manually, which kind defeats the "auto" in auto bed leveling. 4 with 4. A strip connecting them all was added to make removal easier. e. Hi all, Quick question about bed leveling. 65 firmware, it saves mesh to 11 and 6 (respectively for 121 and 36 point mesh). Nozzle is either too far or too low I then adjust offset, but notice still inconsistency. A few questions/concerns: Would simply commenting out the lines that gave errors be enough? I'm afraid I might be disabling some other important feature (specially the Bilinear ABL part) Easiest way in that case is to perform an auto bed level, after which it will prompt you to save the mesh. I switch from the probe the manual leveling, because I thought it was working. At first setup first layer was great across the hole bed, so it was working, now it's high in spots and low in others so bed mesh doesn't seem to be being applied or something. First I build the mesh using Auto build option and then I used Z Probe wizard to adjust the z-offest. Z uses my Z endstop. The center of my bed is lower then the 4 corners (according the CRTouch). Very new to 3D-printing, but I followed the instructions to a tee and even tried manually leveling a bit, but all my prints end up like this. It then moves into nozzle heating mode as if the auto-leveling was successful. h you can enable. The center seems to be lower than the sides/corners which results in horrible first layers for larger prints, and failed prints far more often. I'm running this MRiscoC firmware which includes auto mesh building, bed tramming, etc. They all look roughly like this: - Level the bed with paper For manual bed leveling, uncomment //#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR and comment MESH. 05 at the lowest to +0. It is not tramming, you still gotta adjust the knobs to make your bed relatively level. It’ll home all axes, then run auto bed leveling at the start of every print. If you've connected it to your network and have access to the Fluidd UI via a web browser there should be a tune tab where you can click calibrate which will generate a mesh, then you just have to save it as the default and save and restart your firmware. Auto bed leveling is so nice when it works. Placed solid aluminum 6" level (approximately 1 1/4" tall on edge) on the bed parallel to the gantry. This is probably a good thing but good to keep in mind. I got each corner to be within . ;----- ;*** Start Dual Nozzle/Bed Preheating *** M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; start preheating the bed M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0 ; start preheating hotend G28 ; home M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; heat to Cura Bed setting M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0 ; heat This is a tweak under bed_mesh. 7mm to 0. h: * - MESH_BED_LEVELING * Probe a grid manually * The result is a mesh, suitable for large or uneven beds. I'm looking to get that level of consistency on my modified Ender 3 Max but that's what I'm struggling with. E Z_SAFE_HOMING You can also use the G29 which will auto level prior to every print and use that mesh instead. Mriscoc firmware has a wizard that makes tramming super easy. I got an Creality CR 6-SE with auto bed leveling. I had installed BL Touch and having trouble with bed leveling. This will use that previous mesh so you don’t need G29. Hey guys, I have a feeling that the prints I start with octoprint do not use the bed leveling mesh the printer creates when auto-leveling. Tram the bed, go around each screw at least twice and do the paper check, adjust if needed. I’m happy to help others Oct 11, 2024 · use the following search parameters to narrow your results: subreddit:subreddit find submissions in "subreddit" author:username find submissions by "username" site:example. I have also 5 points but it might be better to have more points maybe but not sure if my board can handle this :) maybe better if I just buy glass bed Well, I tried it - replaced the existing sd card with a known good one, formatted it and I am continuing to have the same issue. Mating parts were never an issue. After leveling the bed and adjusting the z-offset the leveling test prints show a very strange pattern (see the pictures). I've had a leveling knob fall off completely and the bed be tipped +1mm in the back left and -1mm in the front right, and the mesh leveling still resulted in a great print on a cr-10s pro v2. Run a full 5x5 bed mesh, save mesh This commenter is suggesting a longer pre heat, there have been a lot of discussion around preheating the bed for 30 or more minutes to heat soak the bed. I also wonder if your mesh leveling (touching 9 or 16 or 25 points prior to printing via m28 or m29 code) isnt running. Running bed mesh with poor delta calibration will result in confusing and poor results. I have watched several "Setup" tutorials that also go over bed leveling and also use the auto bed leveling feature, including the one from creality. I tried printing with creality print thinking maybe my profile is just not correct and it is the same problem, I'm originally having this issue with cura. Manually leveling the gantry got me down to a maximum deviation of 0. I have a K2M and it seems as though the bed isn't getting properly leveled, or the software isn't correctly using the mesh created. If you properly set the printer up from mechanical point of view (for example the issue you are having can be caused by POM wheels under the bed having just a little bit of play or Z probe mount being little loose) make a proper 121 point mesh - 36 points is way too low for Max - and load it. That said, you're going to have to find a balance of how much is too much. Then my question is - why printer doesn't use bed leveling mesh info by default ? Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. So either high or low. At my job I have a Prusa i3 Mk3s and it auto levels before each print and it is perfect. 3mm max deviation. At this point the mesh bed leveling system is off and all Z Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. 2mm) for abl to compensate correctly. It should be called "Bed tilt/warp mapping and compensation" but it's a real mouthful. ;Auto bed Leveling ;@BEDLEVELVISUALIZER G29 ; ABL T M420 S1 Z10 ; reload and fade mesh bed leveling until it reach 10mm Z G1 X3 Y3 F5000 ; move to corner of the bed to avoid ooze over centre M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; start nozzle heating but don't wait ; Wait for final heating (If you have clips holding the bed, increase it to your clip size +5 for BLTouch and +10~15 for Inductive Sensor) E AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR (or use AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL, guide links later in this post) E RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 OR ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28. As far as I am understanding this, auto bed leveling creates a mesh which the printer should use while printing to change the z-axis to compensate uneven beds. Though I think I read somewhere that that wasn’t actually required if the mesh is set after the G28 command in the start gcode, but it’s still worth a shot. Now on my MK4, as good as this first layer may be I don’t know how flat the bed actually is. Go to Level, Leveling Settings. EDIT: you can also use Octoprint with the mesh bed leveling plugin to adjust the flatness of the bed. A core xy machine could easily have a few motors added so that the printer could use the probe data and adjust the bed without user One modification I'd recommend doing to the Marlin firmware that is not shown in the video is changing "define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X" from 3 to 4 (make sure you do this for the manual mesh bed leveling section, not the automatic mesh bed leveling). Your printer makes a map of all the hills and valleys of your tilted bed and when it's time to print, your prin My question is really, what is the maximum tolerance for the bed level mesh and compensation, after removing my bed and pulling prints off/cleaning etc and putting the bed back on, the bed level mesh ends up obviously changing from originally being perfect. For a 220-250mm bed, I like 16 points (4x4). Tramming, on its own, won't compensate for a warped bed. MESH_BED_LEVELING is the manual bed leveling mode which is the default for creality printers without a probe. So after printing I always auto home after removing print and cleaning bed so that turns off the Bed Leveling Feature. Also i use the probe during Manual Leveling allowing +-0. Took me a few times around the bed to get it right. First you need to set a temp, then use bed level command after each line hit enter: M104 S170 ; set extruder temp for bed levelingM140 S60 ; set bed tempM109 R170 ; wait for bed leveling tempM190 S60 ; wait for bed temp G28 ; home all without mesh bed level`G29 ; mesh bed leveling Is the marlin firmware available for the vyper? I started playing around with the ABL in marlin for my mega i3. Printed some 0. The term "Bed leveling" is terrible. This is what I mentioned in my original post about going from 9 points to 16. Either this is wrong or it doesn't work. I found myself in need of a mesh bed level due to the Creality glass bed having a weird high spot in the middle and other inconsistencies. This is usually from +0. I never have to worry about it. From there I do my Z-Off set using a guage then preformed auto bed mesh with 8x8 probing points. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. For users with OctoPrint and the Bed Visualizer plug-in * Go to the Bed Visualizer tab > Update Mesh Now * After complete locate the Min/Max/Var values - Var (Variation) should be less than . Took the coordinates from my Sovol SV06 printer, so the squares are centered directly over the probe points. The two at the right seem to be ok but the others have a very bad and very uneven quality. I use these steps when leveling. After that you can enable Bed Level to use that mesh as the default. “S1” enables a valid bed mesh for the print, while “S0” would disable it. The more points, the more detailed the mesh. (I level the bed in vertical relation to the nozzle with the bed screws, probe is quit offset fron the screws). If your firmware does not have RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 configured (which it seems it does based on your original post), then G28 will clear the loaded mesh. Once all the points are probed, the software makes its calculation. Straight G29 will probe a fresh mesh each time. Auto leveling - attached mesh profile d. but the g code doesnt seem to be working. Steps I've followed: Followed YouTube tutorials where I select auxiliary leveling and use a piece of paper to get the nozzle as close as possible to the bed Auto leveled right after and then readjusted the z offset with a piece of paper in the middle of the bed and saved. What sequence of g-code should I normally be doing at the beginning of a print as far as bed leveling goes? It won't do a whole new bed mesh every print if that's what you're expecting, there is gcode that will do a full mesh every time, but it adds to your print times. Bed mesh. ) * For machines without a probe, Mesh Bed Leveling provides a method to perform Posted by u/ReadMyUsernameKThx - 1 vote and 4 comments Since posting this I was able to get a bed leveling with G28 BED_MESH_CLEAR BED_MESH_CALIBRATE BED_MESH_PROFILE SAVE=AQUILAX2 SAVE_CONFIG but then to load the visualization i have to erase all that and just input @BEDLEVELVISUALIZER BED_MESH_OUTPUT M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}; Heat bed M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}; Heat extruder G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28 ; Home all axes M420 S1 ; Enable Bed Levelling Mesh M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}; Wait for bed to get up to temperature Auto bed leveling limitations? My ender 3 bed seems to be too warped (range of 0. Start with aux lvl, use offset to pinch paper on position 1. But it was working, I just read the mesh wrong when editing the points on the mesh. I've manual leveled the bed using a sheet of paper on all 4 corners using the screw knobs, and then running the auto leveling routine and "of course" making sure I had the M420 S1 Z10 at the start of the g code. . One may define a [bed_mesh Easy way to check if there's a valid mesh is to visit Advanced>Mesh Leveling>View Mesh. 0 ; Move to start ok works great, the leveling but my Z stepper is getting really hot when it is trying to compensate for the next layers with fade set to 20mm. The more detailed the mesh, the more accurate the first layer will be. I've added the g code to recall the bed mesh, I'm not sure if it helping or hurting. The thing is that G28 disables Mesh Bed Leveling G28 is auto home axis. Try adding “M420 S1 ; Load bed mesh” after your M500 command, without the quotes obviously. If you are running . /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. Then i create the mesh and save it. UBL uses the G29 subroutine options to load an existing mesh, and then accurately align it with the current bed position. 3 F5000. Jul 8, 2021 · Hello All, I finally received the longer dual-z belt I needed to test out my theory regarding the right side of the x gantry not moving symmetrically with the left. It was easier to just run the bed level visualizer plugin for Octoprint, then eyeball the adjustment manually. I have Anycubic Kobra Max. Follow with M420 S to turn leveling on, or use RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 to automatically keep leveling on after G28. 27 being the highest. But i just find out that printer actually doesn't use it unless i will make G-code modification. There's probably an option for ABL or Mesh bed leveling or tuning somewhere available via the built in display. Old Printer? Cheap Printer? New Printer? Bad Prints? Hi all, I am trying to get my Ender 5 Plus to level the bed before each print, I have included the code blocks below. I've only had the s1 for a couple weeks so I'm a complete noob yet (so I'm expecting I'm doing something wrong). 99 CAD for 1. This is the easiest always accurate implementation to get going. Then use M420 S1 in your gcode after G28. I finally got around to setting up a z probe (bltouch) on my custom printer. G28 to home XYZ. The math is done pre-offset adjustment, so you need to set your mesh range. M420 S1 uses an existing mesh, and does nothing to align it. However since I have M420 S 1 in my Starting G code in Cura it is applied to all sliced prints and auto turns on after new print (After G28). Check out this example from my printer: [bed_mesh] speed: 150 horizontal_move_z: 6 mesh_min: 10,10 mesh_max: 186,205 probe_count: 5,5 Automatic tramming, where the bed physically tilts on its own Bed mesh leveling, where the machine moves in Z as it prints to compensate for things like bed warp Some machines can do both. 8. Been having a hard time solving this bed leveling issue on my Ender 3 V2 Neo. Now that the mesh is cleared and the bed is leveled Press Create New Mesh, wait till its This means G29 L1 is restoring the mesh bed data AND turning off mesh level as well. 20 this is slightly higher and back right is -0. If I add/change ; Auto Leveling BED_MESH_CALIBRATE BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default to my start macro my bed will auto level and use this profile each print right? ; bed and hot end are already heaten (cura gcode) G28 ; home before bed leveling (needed!) G29 ; bed leveling G90 ; absolute G0 Z20 F1000; head 20 mm above bed ; this is pretty useless I will modify this later G0 X10 Y0 Z0. 0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X0. Ok. Assuming a valid mesh is present in Slot 0 (according to you gcode command) then it may just be a matter of your start G code. Note that performing delta calibration will invalidate any previously obtained bed mesh. Clear Current Mesh Verify that the mesh is cleared by viewing the mesh. 0 # Mesh Bed Leveling. So it seems as if the bed mesh is not used. BED_MESH_CLEAR to make sure the default mesh doesn't interfere with any other measurements. Z-offset again to make sure scratching paper Yea. Most ABL systems are based on a feature of Marlin called Mesh-bed leveling (Also a bad term). Bed leveling went well, but I changed to USB 3 and serial to clean up the wire mess and now I can't seem to get bed leveling to do anything. The preheat before the auto level is just getting it up to temp for the auto bed level. Trying to understand how its supposed to work. you did do the 5x5 bed level probing and saved those values to eeprom? How would I know if the values were being saved? I feel like this is the issue I keep coming back to. 3mm above the bed G91 ; relative G0 X+60 G1 E30 F300 ; clear the buse Designed this print to help me dial in each location in a 25 point manual mesh bed leveling grid. 01, basically level, however front left is 0. For my situation, the issue was mechanical and not firmware/klipper. 74 this is lower. Once your bed is dialed in, there's little need to adjust it as your bed mesh can adjust for minor deviations, so I replaced the bed springs with nylon spacers. •I haven't looked into it yet, but it looks like there's a tramming assistant in the Configuration_adv. It’s basically 1 or the other. im aslo using the mriscoc firware with auto mesh levelling . Part of the aggravation is it goes through this whole leveling process, then the bed goes down maybe 4/5 of the way to the bottom and the machine goes back to the generic "Ready To Print' screen. Commented out AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR because only one is accepted Changed GRID_MAX_POINTS_X to 5 Uncomment LCD_BED_LEVELING. 2 board, not creating new mesh or failing to create new mesh. In either case, you need to add one or the other (not both) AFTER the G28 command as the G28 resets everything. 1kg on Amazon. Should be pretty easy to switch to manual mesh leveling in the firmware. Second, clean your bed with warm water and dish soap, dry it with paper towels. After swapping the bed and the nozzle it crashes into the bed after mesh bed leveling. I've practically tried everything I could think of imaginable. I am using a stock Kobra Neo with firmware version 1. While leveling it never touches the bed but after waiting for the nozzle and the bed to heat up it ignores the bed height. This may make leveling the bed even easier. Auto homing after this is a bit puzzling as G28 turns off all mesh compensation. 3. 5mm longer and the z-offset would need to be adjusted for it. Another day will get proper washers or dedicate more time to it and make the bed even. 53mm in the mesh. But bed mesh leveling will let you print, even if your bed is measurably warped. I've noticed it seems to ignore the bed leveling. 1 Y20 Z0. Printer was leveled with the paper test and then auto leveling but I guess I needed to turn this on or else the printer assumes we went through all that auto leveling just for fun. Then manually adjust all bed wheels to pinch paper After this I use auto leveling, which goes to 100% At this point I think I'm good, and I try print. Moved the bed forward so the middle of the bed was approximately in-line with the gantry. 03 diferences between corners. 0 z_hop_speed: 10. went from a 0. But You will still have to manually level the bed with the knobs and check your Z Offset. Ender 3 v2 unable to create new Auto Bed leveling mesh. All of this is done with a hot bed so that everything is consistent when it comes time to print. Twotrees sapphire for example has 120% first layer flow as example I have a Creality cr20 pro and although I have run the auto bed leveling repeatedly it seems that the bed is not level while printing. i have a 4. The auto bed levelling is not doing much for me. QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL to level the gantry to the bed. You wouldn't believe it, but most standard cura profiles have a increased first layer flow and use a course layer height, so that allows for more errors in the bed mesh or manual leveling. For larger beds like my Ender 5 Plus, I do 49 points (7x7), but with an induction probe. 2. This is using the cheapest white PLA I could find, some JAYO (Sunlu?) PLA+ that was $15. I've bene printing fine for over a year now but just began having problems with bed leveling inconsistencies across my build plate. Enable lcd manual level menu (always in config. The mesh seems to be correct but when printing the first layer gets too squished in the center and too loose when getting close to the borders. After the install, adjusting my z-offset, verifying the x-gantry was level, and running a new bed mesh my bed level issues went away. Reset z offset to 0. I ran the auto bed leveling multiple times but when i print a large batch of prints, The ones on the corners are visibly far away from the nozzle. ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code M190 S60 ; preheat bed for abl G28 ; home G29 ; abl ;*** Start Preheating *** M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; heat to setting M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0 ; heat to setting ;*** End Preheating *** G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z2. 0 z_hop: 10. Change surfaces without setup, as in switch between bed materials without having to relevel? You can try using a G29 after a G28 in your start gcode. G28 disables bed leveling. 3 F1000; go to left front corner 0. That's my Start G-code, thanks in advance. " Hi, I just installed professional firmware with BL Touch. Cause if the Z axis doesn't change during printing, it's normal that the high part is squished and the low part is not sticking. The auto-leveling of the gantry was about 1. Apr 13, 2024 · If you look at your readings the centre is 0. Ender 3 v2 is on marlin v1. Do the bed level. The z-offset is essentially a measure of the difference between the end of your nozzle and wherever the auto-level tool senses the bed. I guess something is wrong with auto leveling as the repeated leveling process Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now 120,120 speed: 100. There are also systems that use a contactless proximity sensor to measure distance to the bed and create the same mesh. Most people put the G29 at the very end of the start gcode so that the bed and hotend get up to temperature before auto leveling. The software now uses this to compensate for the uneven nature of the print by moving the Z axis by tiny amounts as the head moves across the bed so you get a perfect print. I did the nylock mod and had the print bed dialed in very flat. Run the Bed Tramming and level your bed as best as possible either with the probe, or with a sheet of paper, adjusting your corners so that the paper just snags under your nozzle. I've noticed when printing a large 18x18 flat surface, everything prints perfectly, except in the center of the plate the layer isn't as clean (looks as if the Z correction is a tiny bit too low there). Example, if you replace a worn nozzle with a new one, the new one may be a 0. Pushed the gantry down onto the level. G28 ;Home an disabeling bl In the Bed Leveling section, Bed Tramming 1 starts heating the bed to 60 then probe probing all screws, then Bed Tramming 2 is to keep going around until you get under 5 minutes on each screw, then Bed Mesh to finalist with the mesh and save it. I just came on Reddit to research the same thing. After i turn on the machine and select the auto level feature, the nozzle moves to the middle of the print bed, touches down, then moves off of the bed to the front left corner. Doesn't show very well in the image but top right is too close to the bed, bottom left is a bit too far away, and middle is perfect. I had a similar problem on another printer and solved it, when the mesh bed levelling is done with just a 5x5 grid it leaves a lot up to the firmware to average especially on such a large bed. ok. From configuration. Bed wheels (y-axis) are tight - adjusted eccentric nuts on both sides, bed is smooth and minimal shaking Bed calibration a. Is there a way to check if it does or not? My printer is an anycubic vyper with stock auto-leveling Being focused on functional parts, I learned early that while the self leveling is great, it results in parts only as flat as the bed itself. Any help would be appreciated!. 3 washers and added to the bed screws and finished the fine tuning at the screws torque. Uncomment MESH_BED_LEVELING. If you do an ABL for any print anyway, this doesn't matter and you might as well disable the bed level as the one created during the print will override the default one After you have the bed level. Adjusted z-offset to scratch on paper a little b. Then save that mesh with the store settings. * Go to; Auto Level * After complete run a test print to test the bed level - There are plug-ins for Cura to load a bed level test print. After performing a new delta calibration be sure to rerun BED_MESH_CALIBRATE. The auto leveling makes a bed mesh to correct the unevenness of your bed as well as handle small out of alignments in your manual "leveling" (tramming) process. (See BILINEAR. Remember to set Z-offset on a room temp bed tho. i understend that. When you run a leveling sequence the print head moves to each test point, the probe extends until it touches the bed, the distance the probe extends is recorded. I use the start G code for ender 3 v2 below ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28 ; Home all axes M420 S1 Hi Folks, Can I check my GCode is correct to use the bed level mesh. I've had a few instances where the mesh was saved the incorrect slot or was somehow invalidated previously. Then M500, M501, G28 Save to eeprom and then reload from eeprom. After tons of research and compiling Marlin with the correct options, I was able to step through a manual "auto bed level" program with the help of Octoprint and a sheet of paper. There has to be something. At the start of the print it does the auto level and for me I got stuck around Mesh leveling point #24 and it would raise and lower the bed by 25-30mm and vibrate about 3-4 times, sometimes it would spend a very long time tapping the nozzle on point # 23 as well like tapping it 20 times in a row but it would never fail until point #24 and when The problem is, it has no way to adjust the bed. You are correct. I had this on a cr 10 v2 that also had a 5x5 probe grid, so I decided to compile the firmware to it did a 10x10 grid making it much more accurate. I´m bashing my head against this question regarding how to properly use the auto bed leveling on a stock Ender 3 V2 NEO. luhzvfj hsbznd ppdu pbbgh ulyb ugrmxvu udgg upf hjbxbo chlg